Monday, March 30, 2009
KRISTEN LEE Black Canvas Open-Toe Booties-size 9 $288
Saturday, March 28, 2009
90's KRIZIA Tie-Die Bullet Bead Warrior Jacket-$424
Thursday, March 26, 2009
From Japan they optimistically brought an arty, intellectual and quite challenging aesthetic to the world of fashion like never seen before, a reaction to the ultra-femme norms of society and a pre-cursor to the maximalist glamor of the Reagen era. Together they introduced the concepts of anti-fashion through austere deconstruction, materials were often draped around the body and featured frayed, unfinished edges along with holes and a general asymmetrical shape. And to us, most importantly, everything was black, something many ran away from at one time.
And with dropped crotch pants, deconstruction, and asymmetry seeming to feel like a runway norm these days, we wanted to take a moment and highlight some of our own finds inspired by this groundbreaking era in fashion. Take these fantastic early 80's YOHJI YAMAMOTO fluid black pants that have a dropped crotch and one leg that's more voluminous than the other, ultimately creating a soft, draped, poetic imbalance. And from a man known for his own take on Eastern-influenced ease, GIORGIO ARMANI, come these early 90's black drop-crotch pants that have a pleated dhoti drawstring waist and contrasting velvet cuffs. Both of these pieces beautifully highlight the considerable contributions of the Japanese invasion of the early 80's while at the same time having a very contemporary sensibilty to them.
Above- Early 80's YOHJI YAMAMOTO Dropped Crotch Draped Leg Pants-$454 Sorry this item has been SOLD
Below- 90's GIORGIO ARMANI Dropped Crotch Dhoti Pleated Pants-$276 Sorry this item has been SOLD
It's been almost two years since we first fell for Baltimore teen Rye Rye & her infectious single "Shake it to the Ground" and her latest video, "Hardcore Girls" well, we just can't stop listening to it. In today's dark & dismal world of crossover hip-hop, we love that Rye Rye sounds & feels so optimistic, bubbly, and fresh. We wish the music industry would push more talents like Rye Rye instead of all that mindless tween nonsense.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
90's MOSCHINO Nature vs. Future Printed Skirt Suit-$388
Update: Dear: 55 has moved to a bigger, bolder space on the Lower East Side's Rivington st. on the corner of Ludlow & now houses a floor devoted to collectible house-wares.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
PRADA 2002 Gold Metallic Brocade Pajama Blouse-$228
Pictured from top to bottom: PRADA Spring 2002/DOLCE & GABBANA Spring 2009
Friday, March 13, 2009
1997 STEPHEN SPROUSE Warhol "Admit One" Printed Silk Dress w Chiffon Cape Back-$1800
Nina Ricci(also pictured above)-It's sad to see that even ten years after he was first heralded as a gifted designer, Olivier Theysken's supreme talent has always been on unfortunately shaky ground. And what's even more unfortunate is the fact that nobody seems to realize that since Theysken's designs stand on their own hypnotically poetic ground and are so precious, they should and never will be for everyone. His complex ideas should not be burdened by the pressure to run a huge house, and his ideas should not fall plague to banality. This designer needs expansive freedom yes, but we think it's become a huge disadvantage for him to be caught up with the pressure of being so commercially viable. After all of these years, someone so precise, so divinely talented, really deserves the opportunity to just be. And if the house of Nina Ricci really thinks it has any room in an economy like today's, it ought to stop hiring such ambitious and highly coveted talents and wasting them away because what they did to Lars Nilsson was no better. This was by far Theyskens best show ever, one of the best shows of the season in fact. We loved that it was a very Parisian strain of sci-fi power chic with a magical Ziggy Stardust feel, that the girls proportions seemed to miraculously look seven feet tall and about 18 inches wide, yet it wasn't clownish, it was darkly romantic, sexy and hypnotic and everything had an appeal that was beyond cool.
Chloe(also shown above below)- Like many of the older more established houses to make a comeback in the 90's, Chloe too has been struggling with the recent loss of powerful designer and has had a hard time retaining it's louche, youthful, Left Bank whimsy. Less than a month ago new comer Hannah MacGibbon had us puzzled with her pre-fall presentation that might have had some great updates to the classic sportswear of Bonnie Cashin, yet it was too spare, a bit bland, traditional and easy. And the Chloe we have grown up lusting after, would have never fallen victim to looking like another Adidas collaboration nor like an A.P.C catalog like it has under MacGibbon's watch. Yet her end result for Fall 2009 was in our book, one of the best, purest takes on the 80's trend that was everywhere this season. It was a fresh observation of that era's sportswear with a preppy hand that somehow radiated that sexy, if not quirky, classic Parisian cool. There was not one single look, one single item, that we are not coveting, from the oversize parkas to the leather shorts to the pants, everything was dead-on-the-mark.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Thursday, March 5, 2009
After just a few short season's English designer Gareth Pugh has quite ferociously created a strong and powerful aesthetic that's all his own. Taking cues from London's dark, gothic inspired club kids and the work of Rick Owens, Pugh has ultimately created a name for himself with a daring aesthetic that also channels the legendary work of Leigh Bowery. His collections are blatantly hardcore, tough and reminiscent of Mad-Max with their sci-fi undertones combined with serious punk elements and hardware. For Fall 2009 he changed his presentation from runway to video format, a move that we think highlighted the beauty of his silouhettes and gave the clothing a less severe somewhat organic feel. While these looks were definitely not for the jeans & tee-shirt crowd, Pugh does remind us of an old-school designer in the sense that he is creating an entirely new controlled lifestyle. These clothes are beautiful of course, but the true challenge is in the fact that they aren't everyday clothes for running errands lets say, and that they require a totally precise and pure sense of aesthetic direction for the wearer. If anything, one could say that Pugh is the one & only one making clothing that's this extraordinarily dark, menacing yet substantial and somehow totally relevant for today.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Prada(also shown above)-After several past hit-or-miss collections teetering on the border of tastelessness rather than provocation, Miucca Prada smartly channeled her 90's hey-day for fall and hit upon all of our favorite Prada-isms. The core of the collection may have been based on fur, smart suits and beautifully cut coats yet the end result was positively hardcore, aggressive and astoundingly minimal with dark equestrian undertones and a slightly mannish coldness. And speaking of Prada-isms, they were all here in full force from the vaguely romantic old-world Italian pretense, to the slight vintage feel as well as the embellishments that overall resulted in a romantic Mad-Max feel. We especially loved the use of fur on paneled dresses and the heavily decorated fringed leather finale looks.
Marni-Two season's ago many journalists had a lot to say about the fact that Marni is always resolutely Marni, and that it never seems to change direction, however we feel the need to pull out that particular cliche "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Marni once again had us feeling giddy with it's super-charged sportswear that was as optimistic as it was far-out cool. This collection was heavy on navy-blue and offered some great takes on the fur front as well as sport-inspired garb and some impossibly chic accessories that riffed on the house's love affair with the space-age Mods of the 60's. After all, fashion shouldn't be completely all about re-inventing the wheel, sometimes it's also about celebrating today, and tomorrow.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Jaeger London(also pictured above)- Style.com's Tim Blanks may have been correct when he called Jeager's Fall 2009 show "a little too contrived" for his tastes, yet after many New York designers tried to create what we consider pragmatic boardroom chic, Jaeger's on-trend showing was to us, sportswear at it's best. It was a bit mod, a bit military in it's restraint, incredibly polished, wearable and perfect for everyday life, especially considering the line's attainable price-points. What was probably most memorable were the girlie fur stripes and bows which reminded us of the Parisian merriness of Sonia Rykiel.
Armand Basi One- Markus Lupfer of Armand Basi has been on our radar for quite a few season's now because frankly, he makes some darn cool clothes! This collection brilliantly referenced what seems to be an untapped era of the early 80's, specifically the dark, moody and almost punky poetic designs of Paris's early 80's Japanese invasion, yet it was never too literal. Channeling that aggressive mood with an even colder hand of austerity happened to result in a cooly calculated sophistication that was ultimately a minimal, spare, easy-to-wear take on the decade, this, as a gaggle of other designers are referencing the tired neon Culture Club moment of the 80's.
Christopher Kane- Christopher Kane has managed to quickly become a big-league player and one of London's most important designer today. What we like about him, and what this collection so brilliantly points out is that Kane, unlike many of his peers, is capable of creating gorgeous, rich, modern and even luxe clothing that's undeniably fresh, that can be as minimal as this collection was, yet still be so powerful, downright cool and stimulating. He may have started his line with a strong infatuation for the early 90's, but it was refreshing to see him move on to the quieter part of the decade where minimalism was de riguer.
Erdem-In a few short years Erderm Moralioglu has garnered a cult following among the international dress-set for his beautifully crafted confections that stand on their own. Unlike many others in the dress game who tend to over-do it with too much saccharine sweetness and Vegas showgirl preoccupations, Erdem is strong yet optimistically youthful, vibrant and somehow never pretentious . Erdem's fall showing was brilliantly moody, dark, reserved and completely void of frilly romance, something that takes a visionary eye since it was a collection primarily focused on florals, whether classic, digitalized or watercolor, and dreamy babydoll dressing.