VagaBond NYC + Toto Cullen for DMAg

We worked recently with uber talented photographer Toto Cullen and so we would like to share some of the results of the creative process with you. Gwen, the model is resplendent in pieces from the VagaBondnyc archive.

Gwen wears Jean Paul Gaultier

Gwen wears George Boreham

Gwen wears Chanel

Oh Poor Atlas, the World's a Beast of a Burden

If ever there was an artist who so utilized her wardrobe so as to enhance (and not take away from, here's looking at you Germanotta) a performance it would have to be Florence Welch, often found accompanied by her 'Machine'.

Flowing locks and porcelain skin, Ms. Welch embodies ethereal fantasy. Her voice transcends the listener to whatever height she finds herself on when her voice emanates from her being.

Having just launched Ceremonials (on repeat here at VagaBond HQ!), the eagerly anticipated follow up to Lungs, Florence is about to embark upon a European tour. Something tells me that, unlike her contemporaries, she will stick to what works for her - beautiful flowing fabrics, delicate patterns and carefully selected vintage pieces - as opposed to violently revamping her image in accordance with a new album.

Everyone and their mother is award of her performance for Chanel in Paris at the S/S '12 show. When you're hand picked by M. Lagerfeld himself, what more reassurance do you need that your style is truly unequivocal? Added to this, she frequents our pop up store at Bond 07 and has selected some of our pieces for her own wardrobe. She's a true blue VagaBond girl...

Focus On: LimROCK

In order to keep things fresh here we like to feature a designer every now and then who you may be unaware of. The latest installment of the VagaBond NYC blog will focus on another new Irish designer, Natalie B. Coleman. Originating from Carrickmacross, a town in Monaghan, Ireland, the designer set off on her design studies at the renowned Limerick School of Art and Design. She developed upon her knowledge at Central Saint Martin's, home to alumni such as Alexander McQueen. Coleman embarked upon establishing her own label last year following stints in New York and designing for a dance company. 

Coleman includes hand drawings and watercolors that are printed onto silks in a bid to establish a real sense of exclusivity to her pieces. Hailing inspirations as diverse as ostriches, unicorns and biker movies as inspiration, Coleman launched her SS 12 collection entitled, 'All the Jewellery I Never Got.'

Que Porter: Practical Elegance

80's Louis Feraud Silk Shirtdress

I am about to celebrate my very first Thanksgiving this week and it is a fact that I greet with much excitement. Growing up, thanks to our mass consumption of US media, we were all aware of this holiday but few get to experience it first hand.

So as the weekend approaches, I am starting to ponder my wardrobe choices for this holiday. I am guessing that since it is predominantly marked by spending time with family and friends around a plethora of delicious dishes (my fingers are crossed for pie!) that one must dress accordingly. Now, normally I would be all for making a statement and adopting a devil may care attitude with regard to my outfits but I think Thanksgiving merits a choice that takes into consideration a no doubt expanding waistline.

With this in mind, I have dug through the veritable treasure trove that is the VagaBond NYC archive and chosen some pieces that should prove to be far kinder than, let's say, that body con number you are desperate to break out of the wardrobe. We are all about oversizing and fabulous billowing blouses for the day that's in it. 



Laura Biagiotti Honeycomb Linen Blouse

70's Yves Saint Laurent Ruby Silk Blouse

Vnyc Named Top Six for Online Couture Shopping

Guess who was featured alongside Barneys and Net-a-Porter as one of the six best places to buy couture online? High five anyone? 

Inspiration: Willy Vanderperrfect

We have been looking for inspiration for an upcoming shoot and in the midst of mountains of magazines and an overused Google search bar, we fell in love with Willy Vanderperre.















The Belgian Royal Academy of Fine Arts grad has a compelling way of giving his shots a smoky lift that engage the mind and really draw you in. Every shot urges you to stare that little bit longer, whether it is commercial or editorial in direction. Heralding Francis Bacon, Lucien Freud and Jenny Saville, as well as his upbringing in Belgium, as the prime inspiration for his work.

You may have come across Vanderperre in Jil Sander, Prada and Dior Homme advertisements. Needless to say his work has also featured in editorials for publications such as Vogue China and i-D.

Focus On: Electronic Sheep

 

If there's anything Irish people are good at (I know what you're thinking and this has nothing to do with liqour!), it's bundling up! Scarves are de rigeur in the Emerald Isle, winter is cold and as we say at home the wind 'would go through you for a shortcut.' Not really too sure what that means either..

It only makes sense then that an Irish designer would take on the challenge of creating an interesting and unique line that houses that much needed accessory. Electronic Sheep are surely paving the way for the must have accessory of winter '11. Their neon digital prints are nothing short of cool and the company have been increasingly gaining attention in European media circles lately.

Baroque and Roll: Print Mania

Ba·roque  (b-rk)

adj.

1. also Baroque Of, relating to, or characteristic of a style in art and architecture developed in Europe from the early 17th to mid-18th century, emphasizing dramatic, often strained effect and typified by bold, curving forms, elaborate ornamentation, and overall balance of disparate parts.

2. Extravagant, complex, or bizarre, especially in ornamentation: "the baroque, encoded language of post-structural legal and literary theory" (Wendy Kaminer).

3. Irregular in shape: baroque pearls.

---



Gianni Versace Baroque Jacket

We love us some baroque here at VagaBond. In fact, the more flamboyant and elaborate the better. It seems baroque has been associated with couture forever, enlivening a piece and stirring any look with an intense drama. Italian in origin, the style came to prominence in the early 1600's. 

Today's baroque is less about the ruffles and plumage and all about embellishment, metal tones or bright colors and a slick of texture. Think prints as diverse as animal and jacquard. Not for the faint hearted, baroque is positively a look intended to capture the gaze of a passer by. 

In the past three decades, baroque has become eponymously associated with Versace. Think of the supermodels flaunting those safety pin dresses on the runway and bold, brash prints. The style harks back to a pre-recessionary era where glitz and glamour were very much meant to be in your face. 

Embellishments are also key to achieving a distinction of baroque. If rave colors are not your thing then look into cleverly embellished pieces. This beautiful Balenciaga jacket is quintessentially baroque with its unique detailing; sculptured shape, chain front closing and contrasting pocket flaps.



Balenciaga Baroque Silk Jacket

 

Focus On: Versace (Again...)




With H&M launching ‘The Very Best of Versace’ in selected stores on November 19th, we have taken a look at the history of the man himself, Gianni. A veritable fashion ingenue and creator, it goes without saying that Versace altered the course of fashion history. Without him the institution of the ‘supermodel’ would never exist and the Medusa head would solely be representative of Greek myth and not an icon synonymous with the Italian fashion mega force.

Growing up in Calabria, Italy, Versace’s first foray into design started in his childhood as he assimilated dressmaking techniques from his mother.

The Gianni Versace line debuted in 1978. Eleven years later Versace showed his first haute couture collection.

As innovative as he was artistic, Versace designed for theatre, ballet and opera and in 1982 he launched ‘Oroton’, a chainmail he himself invented and presented at the Paris Opera.

1995 saw Versace’s first haute couture show in New York City.

Gianni’s sister and somewhat muse, Donnatella took the reigns at the Atelier following his murder at South Beach in 1997. The global power force that is Versace has never ceased to wane, culminating celebrity and embracing glamour at each and every turn.

A Versace piece can render instant fame, a la Elizabeth Hurley and that infamous safety pin dress. Versace is couture in the extreme and strikes a semblance with the wearer that ensures attention.



Versace Spring 1994

Combien? The 35 Essential Looks for Any Couturier

Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale

Here at Vagabond we've had the S/S '12 runway shows on a constant loop and as we were studying the likes of Mc Queen, Christopher Kane etc. I noticed a concurrent pattern and it wasn't printed on any garment.

Each show seemed to feature 35 or more key looks and I was left wondering how and why each collection housed that many outfits based on that number.

Being the nerd that I am, I popped my head into a fashion history book (Yep, no Google or fancy apps for me!) learned that during the early days as Paris was establishing its legacy as a fashion capital that in order to gain admittance to the veritable designers guild, 'Le Chambre Syndicale de la Confection et de la Couture pour Dames et Fillettes,' a designer had to host a collection containing at least 35 pieces bi-annually and must also have employed fifteen workers or more.

Membership of La Chambre classified a label as a couture house and allowed for a designer to patent their creations.

Official members of La Chambre Syndicale include Chanel, Dior, Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Dior Colors Us Intrigued

Back in the thirties no one would ever have dreamed of a German/French coalition... But thankfully it's the 'naugthies' as Dior has embarked on one seriously vibrant collaboration with Berlin based artist Anselm Reyle.

It's a whole splash of patterns with bolts of flourescent shades. I cant decide whether I'm entranced or repelled by these pieces but they certainly are attention grabbing. Too much or perfect for right now?

You be the judge.