Dandy in the Underworld

We were looking to dandyism and teddy boy style, reinterpreted through a minimalist aesthetic and worn  gracefully on a woman's body. 

All clothes: Vagabond NYC. Photography: Toto Cullen. Model: Gwen Lu at Major

"Style is when they're running you out of town and you make it look as if you're leading the parade" -- Sebastian Horsley (1962-2010) 

George Boreham couture sequin jacket, Chanel fingerless gloves

Chanel sleeveless tuxedo top, Gianni Versace high waist black trouser

Jean Paul Gaultier velvet and mesh top, Claude Montana ivory tapered pants

Jil Sander black tuxedo coat

Balenciaga 2006 brocade jacket 

Valentino zebra print trouser, Jil Sander shirt

We were catching a very strong Tina Chow feel from the unfinished proofs. Her androgynous yet elegant style was distinctive and often imitated, yet never improved upon. 

Most Wanted: Balenciaga's Dog Sweater

As hard as it was trying to score this F/W 2000 Balenciaga dog print sweater(we've never stopped looking since), an even greater shock comes at the thought of how difficult its going to be 10 years later, now that its been reissued for Pre-Fall 2011. As eternally elusive as this trophy sweater may be, we could in turn use it as a reference point for the decade long block of cool cult status Nicolas Ghesquiere has had us under his spell with.

Balenciaga Fall 2000 advert, above. Pre-Fall 2011, below.

Best of Fall/Winter 2011

One could go on & on about how there's too much fashion too soon, and while that is true, there were still plenty of captivating collections out there to get our sartorial senses geared for next season. Here's a look at our favorites for Fall 2011.

Balenciaga


Nicolas Ghesquiere has proven again & again that he's fashion's most forward thinking designer and Fall's re-working of ideas from past seasons made for quite an original, and finally wearable proposition.

Jil Sander


Raf Simon's Jil Sander woman has always been the cool, collected & confident type, but Fall's harmonious blend of couture shapes and techno retro ski-inspired separates had a high dose of subtle sophistication that could work on just about anyone.

Chloe


Hannah MacGibbon once again proved her mastery at the girlish Parisian codes Chloe is known for with a pitch-perfect outing jam packed with must-have leather trousers, maxi dresses and new takes on daily essentials with a fresh attitude.

Miu Miu


Easy pretty isn't something one may normally associate with any Miuccia Prada effort, yet her latest take on the 40's was charmingly seductive with its fuss-free ease and novel elegance.

Missoni


Missoni's Fall range was a riot of decadent fabrications, treatments, prints, textures and shapes made mesmerizing by an assured hand at the stimulating powers of unadulterated color.

Best of Paris Fall 2011

Paris is & has always been the highlight of every season and Fall 2011 was full of tremendous fashion. The kind of fashion that makes us take note at what we not only want for ourselves but what we should be filling the shop with as well. Here's a look at the city's most exceptional outings...

Chloe


Chloe's Hannah MacGibbon has clearly got a new found thing for snakeskin this season and her plays with leather & various skins mixed with the house's signature forever-cool Parisian girl nonchalance made for a slick parade of beautifully crafted pieces that looked simultaneously precious, energetic, and somehow quirky while all generously easy on the wear.



Miu Miu

Every season needs a touch of retro flair and while Miuccia Prada has channeled the 40's many times over, her reworking of the era for Fall 2011 came with a restrained sophistication that felt achingly hip. A strong shoulder line, abbreviated proportions, graphic collars and an obi-like pouf panel at the waist made a case for straight forward, confident glamour.



Balenciaga


All of the elements Nicolas Ghesquiere has been toying with over the past few seasons rigorously came together to create one of Balenciaga's most wearable collections in ages, and one of it's best. Adding a new midi-length to the line-up along with a vibrant classical floral wallpaper print worked to freshen up his articulated techno-chic propositions.



Rick Owens


Last season we saw Rick Owens elevate his distinctive tribal urbanite to an intoxicating sci-fi goth-couture hybrid and Fall's layered styling of signature cashmere knits managed to elicit the kind of elusive heady glamour not often associated with his brand of modernity.



Carven


In just a few seasons Carven has quite possibly become one of our favorite contemporary brands due in major part to the simple fact that everything about whats for grabs is flawlessly appropriate, impeccably styled and uniquely on trend. And that in itself is quite a feat considering the abundant market we now think it dominates(sartorially, that is). Every single look was right-on, just like our other favorites from Paris.

Other stand outs full of enough must-have product to literally break your bank many times over included Alexander McQueen, Celine, Lanvin, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Limi Feu, Undercover, Valentino, Veronique Leroy & YSL.

A look at every single favorite Paris Fall 2011 runway look here