Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Everything Good About the Marc Jacobs Spring '15 Show

While everybody has already moved on to Milan, we're still in New York (literally and figuratively), letting the Marc Jacobs show marinate. It was surreal, complete with a mind-bending audio recording and a Pepto-Bismol pink set that included a Wizard of Oz-inspired house and a glowing concrete runway. It was fun, with silhouettes that ran the gamut from baggy and boyish to friskily nymphet-esque. It was at once soft and strong, playing up classic themes of juxtaposition, without so much as a hint of pushed effort. And it was quintessential, uncut, liberated Marc Jacobs.

1. He gave us reason to love a woman in uniform. 
While the foundation of fashion, as well as great style, is individuality, there is something suddenly alluring about the concept of a uniform. Marc sent a fleet of sergeants and generals down the runway, and while they looked like they were in the throes of wicked-glamorous boot camp, there was nothing that said, "Yes, sir" about them.

2. He embraced a few old trademarks and tricks. 
Remember the oversized buttons, baubles, and organic-yet-often plastic embellishments of '90s Marc? They have made their triumphant return and happily, enough time has passed so they feel cute and fresh yet again.

3. The collection is utilitarian in all the right ways. 
Sometimes totally gigantic pockets or a plethora of them in odd and unusable places look stupid. But this brand of refined utilitarianism packs just the right amounts of whimsy and practicality. And actually, some of those big cargo pockets genuinely eliminate the need for a purse.

4. Tomboys are back. But they're in touch with their femininity. 
Ah, the eternally intriguing contrast of masculine and feminine. There's something about a multi-faceted, dual-natured creature that exudes appeal, and it's high time the image-conscious tomboy made a strong showing in the collections. (Pencil skirts, be damned.) More and more chicks ought to embrace the baggy military suit. Or satin military mini-dress. Whatever you prefer.  

6. Really short, hyper-flared mini-skirts are fun. 
Is there anything as youthful as a skirt in such a silhouette? Thigh-skimming, lightly structured (so they won't lose their perkiness), and full of flounce, think of such a skirt as a little ball of euphoria that's just waiting in your closet to show you a good time.

7. He says, "Screw stilettos." Sane women say, "Hooray."

Velveteen Dr. Scholl's, anyone? If there's a designer who could make something that sounds that hideous into something that women will be clamoring for come spring, it's this guy. Besides, he's not the only one who feels the dainty heel ought to be ditched, at least for the time being. The chunky shoe is so on.

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