We know these collections came out weeks ago, but you know what, they don't even hit stores for months. So we've taken our time to reflect. After all, fashion is moving too fast, we need some time to digest as we've noticed that we are forgetting about the collections by the time they actually hit shops. Until then, here's a look at our favorite men's shows that are destined to inspire future buys.
Yohji Yamamoto(above as well)-
Besides the genius tailoring you can expect from any Yohji Yamamoto collection, it was Spring's dandy Baroque squire meets sci-fi Beethoven meets 80's zoot-suit riot that really got our emotions running wild. It was upbeat, avant-garde without frivolity, poetic and best of all, completely wearable. Here the capability for a man to dress with passion without having to sacrifice his dignity was on full display. Bravo!
Dries Van Noten-
DVN is well known as the king of color, the king of print and the king of refined sportswear with an artful ease, yet from him you can still expect a few welcome surprises. Here his preppy foundation and confidence lead him to play with a range of powerful contrasts, such as bleached denim sleeves on an otherwise classic camel coat, and somehow, it looks good, plain & simple.
Over the past few season's Kenzo has become one of our favorite brands and even though minimalism is going strong elsewhere, Antonio Marras was at it again with a collection full of wondrous whimsy. He seems to have a brilliant hold on maintaining the giddy print-oriented codes of Kenzo while updating them with today's expected ease. From the floral printed suits to the outerwear in a soothing palette of muted khakis, this is the one collection of the season we want everything from.
For the man who needs an impeccably crafted classic yet forward thinking suit, or a range of precise sportswear, Kim Jones at Dunhill should become your go-to man. After a few season's, Jones, well-known throughout the fashion world for his street-savvy yet now defunct eponymous label, seems to be making a name for himself at Dunhill with smart collections that riff on the traditional without having to sacrifice a refined level of taste and a sense of self.
Sarah Burton(Alexander McQueen's right hand prior to his death) sent out a somber yet beautifully crafted collection that highlighted McQueen's dedication to tailoring & historical pretense that was so well executed you couldn't help but feel elated after such a traumatic year for the house.
Miuccia Prada's Spring/Summer 2011 outing seemed to channel fashion's quieter vibe while somehow managing to address the reality of how a man approaches fashion, by comfort. That doesn't mean she sent out xxl basketball shorts, but she did throw in quite a few clever variations on hospital scrubs, albeit with a convincing Euro-preppiness. Heavy denims, crisp khaki's and a range of blue lent the collection a subtle nautical flair but what really got our motor-boats running were Prada's stacked adaptations on the classic brogue.