HOGG - TIED... Pam Hogg the Icon

Long before Gaga and Nicola were merging their realms of tranny-friendly fashion and pop-punk, there was one woman who, in the late 80s and early 90s, did it with waay more guts, grit, and gumption. Pam Hogg.

A highly influential figure in the London club scene, Hogg's designs gleefully dance the line between fierce and farce. Her punk-royalty-from-outer-space look has won its share of earthling admirers, from the likes of Kylie Minogue and Amber Rose to her BFF Siouxsie Sioux. After shaping the look of London's underground scene in the 90s, Hogg has continued to design and show during London Fashion Week -- filling the gaping void that was left in a thousand queen's lives when Heatherette shut down (no, not that gaping hole, geez).

If you dig this brass plate pendant chain necklace, then you're in luck. We managed tear this piece off of a Leigh Bowery doppelganger the other night at Eastern Bloc, while the floor was going crazy to a mash-up of Little Richard's "Lucille" and Escort's "Cocaine Blues."

From her "School for Scandal" collection from the early 90s. This show featured featured the London Vogueing group the House of Child featuring Les Child, strutting their stuff all over the runway. This necklace captures the in-your-face spirit that Hogg is known for, and if the crest with the crowned eagle clutching a skull doesn't do it for you, then I don't know what will. 

A true style icon for those in the know, Pam Hogg set the standard for what to wear when you're meeting royalty, royally rocking it, and everything in-between. 

     

Best of London Fall 2011

While you can't blame many of London's most talented for sticking to their guns and churning out distinctly personal collections, there was an over all disconcerting feeling that many of these lines have little relevancy in the world of desirable, attainable high fashion. That being said, there were still a handful of collections that will stand the test of time, from the covetable to the collectible, here were our favorites.

Mary Katrantzou(and above)

Mary Katrantzou continues to revolutionize the fine art of the print season after season and this Fall's rich take on sumptuous couture norms of the past felt energized when balanced with reality friendly layers.



Charles Anastase


We've been big fans of Charles Anastase since the get-go and his Fall range, a general continuation on his intellectual Lolita theme, happens to fit nicely amongst fashion's current retro mood.

Meadham Kirchoff


Meadham Kirchoff were at it again with another strangely beautiful, confidently executed but also wearable outing that had distorted takes on idyllic school uniforms layered with peasant tops and dresses. What stood out this time around was the addition of hand embroidery that added an ethnic twist to the moody, off-kilter dolly-girl effect.

View every single favorite Fall 2011 look from London here

British Style Genius: Granny Takes a Trip

We were delighted to find these short videos featuring John Pierce, founder of Granny Takes a Trip, the once uber-cool, super elusive 70's era go-to brand for those in the know. Enjoy!

Fall 2010: London Show Rooms in New York

A few weeks ago New York fashion editors, stylists & buyers were treated to a special viewing of London's latest crop of forward-thinking labels at the Soho Grand Hotel in a series of cheery showroom style vignettes, with each designer on hand. And what a treat it was as each designer graciously walked visitors through their collections touching on their inspirations, fabrications & construction. And for fashion junkies like ourselves that haven't been able to cross the Atlantic to view the inspiring energy these designers display on the catwalk, it was an exciting event to take in. One was left amazed at how strong and individual each of these young designer's visions are. Here's a quick break-down of some of our favorite labels in participation:

Louise Gray(also shown above)
In just a few seasons Louise Gray has built quite a name for herself with her bold eye for mixing quirky prints, textures & colors like one has never seen. Gray has a knack for combing her explosive textiles with a certain street style attitude that makes her adventurous ideas grounded in an upbeat user friendly reality.

Hannah Marshall

Touching upon London's recent re-finessing of early 90's hallmarks from body-con, to velvet & cut-outs to the now ubiquitous shoulder pad, Hannah Marshall continues to deliver brazenly sexy collections perfect for party-girls on the go. What sets her apart is her calculated restraint as her aesthetic also picks up on the era's crisp minimalism, ultimately creating pieces that may also be sci-fi and a tad other-worldly, yet simple enough to just throw on and run out the door in. And to create such strong, powerful looks that one can wear with such ease, now there's a genius go-to label in the making.

Meadham Kirchoff

The boys of Meadham Kirchoff have been on our radar's since their first collection several seasons back as we are fans of their plays on Edwardiana, romanticized grunge and effortless layering. And while every other Fall 2010 collection hit on the strict over-hyped "need for clean," their brooding lace veiled maidens sent out in a hyper-mix of prints and ethnic references felt refreshingly optimistic. Broken down, the collection is full of easy-to-wear, beautifully made, quirky pieces that have a recognizable disheveled beauty to them.

Todd Lynn

Todd Lynn was also on hand to wow us with his inventive, beautifully constructed takes on what's come to be known as "futuro-goth," the kind of distinctly urbane, moody and sculptural pieces men & women the world over have been living by ever since Helmut Lang & Rick Owens came on the scene. Lynn's take for Fall 2010 came in a refreshingly light palette of woodsy neutrals & matte leathers that lent the collection a softer vibe.

Mary Katrantzou

The latest master of prints to come on to the London scene, Mary Katrantzou, had a bevy of light-as-a-feather dresses & separates on hand that were covered in beautifully mastered digital prints that combined the designer's Art Deco signatures with genius trompe l'oeil prints that came in the form of deceptively printed ruffles, jewel prints & lace panels.

Marjan Pejoski

Marjon Pejoski's collection has made a complete turn around ever since his infamous swan dress for Bjork. Once a playful street-oriented and highly elusive label, we were taken aback by his new found luxurious restraint. Ornately sequined cob-web adornments, a vaguely 20's vibe, and uses of sheer chiffon and intricately detailed chain panels were only further proof of Pejoski's decidedly ultra-luxe new beat.

Holly Fulton

A look at Holly Fulton's range brought forth so many references to mind from Deco & digital prints, to 50's kitsch, and on through the 60's Mod era, and that's quite a broad range to patch together so beautifully. Along with being a master with prints she's also managed to garner quite a reputation for her vaguely Art Deco inspired bib necklaces and jewelery that somehow manage to blend into each look effortlessly. And that's part of why Fulton's collections are always so intriguing, they have a giddy yet polished look, it's not too dainty, not too heavy, but just right and at the same time refreshing. Most impressing however was how light everything was, an ornately embroidered mod-inspired shift dress per say, was as light-as-a-feather. Proposing such a delightful lightness to cocktail hour dressing should continue to keep Fulton top ranks on everyone's radar.

KTZ


Uber hip super high-street mega emporium Kokon To Zai's private label KTZ has quietly gained a cult status among the cool kids and ballsier party-minded fashion folk in the know with their wildly inventive takes on streetwear. Their portion of the event was filled with outrageous takes on the haute-bourjeois era of the early 90's complete with lame ruffled pants, gilt crests and jeweled appliques. In the mix were more grounded layering essentials from smart knitwear to the now essential modified sweatpant.