Monday, March 2, 2009

London Fall '09 Fashion Week Highlights

New York Fashion Week may kick off the annual shows every season, but it's not normally until the London shows that we truly get excited for what's in store next season. After all, London is famous for creating & nurturing young, often avant-garde designers who normally set the pace for fashion's ever changing moods. A hot-bed of talent, London's young designers can be credited with initially bringing trends such as sci-fi, cowboy, neu rave, digital prints, body-con and the early 90's to the forefront of fashion. If New York is all business and Paris is all frou, one could call London a dynamic message-board of energized trends bubbling from copious amounts of creativity. Like New York, London also happened to take on Fall's strong use of fur, yet as you could expect, it was giddier, younger and much more youthful. This time around fur was juxtaposed by modern abstracted digital prints, boudoir inspired body-con and vibrant amounts of 80's punk streetwear. A strong sense of individuality met with an astounding quality in execution are what continue to make London so mesmerizing. Here are our top four favorites that are destined to inspire our future buys!
Jaeger London(also pictured above)-'s Tim Blanks may have been correct when he called Jeager's Fall 2009 show "a little too contrived" for his tastes, yet after many New York designers tried to create what we consider pragmatic boardroom chic, Jaeger's on-trend showing was to us, sportswear at it's best. It was a bit mod, a bit military in it's restraint, incredibly polished, wearable and perfect for everyday life, especially considering the line's attainable price-points. What was probably most memorable were the girlie fur stripes and bows which reminded us of the Parisian merriness of Sonia Rykiel.

Armand Basi One- Markus Lupfer of Armand Basi has been on our radar for quite a few season's now because frankly, he makes some darn cool clothes! This collection brilliantly referenced what seems to be an untapped era of the early 80's, specifically the dark, moody and almost punky poetic designs of Paris's early 80's Japanese invasion, yet it was never too literal. Channeling that aggressive mood with an even colder hand of austerity happened to result in a cooly calculated sophistication that was ultimately a minimal, spare, easy-to-wear take on the decade, this, as a gaggle of other designers are referencing the tired neon Culture Club moment of the 80's.

Christopher Kane- Christopher Kane has managed to quickly become a big-league player and one of London's most important designer today. What we like about him, and what this collection so brilliantly points out is that Kane, unlike many of his peers, is capable of creating gorgeous, rich, modern and even luxe clothing that's undeniably fresh, that can be as minimal as this collection was, yet still be so powerful, downright cool and stimulating. He may have started his line with a strong infatuation for the early 90's, but it was refreshing to see him move on to the quieter part of the decade where minimalism was de riguer.

Erdem-In a few short years Erderm Moralioglu has garnered a cult following among the international dress-set for his beautifully crafted confections that stand on their own. Unlike many others in the dress game who tend to over-do it with too much saccharine sweetness and Vegas showgirl preoccupations, Erdem is strong yet optimistically youthful, vibrant and somehow never pretentious . Erdem's fall showing was brilliantly moody, dark, reserved and completely void of frilly romance, something that takes a visionary eye since it was a collection primarily focused on florals, whether classic, digitalized or watercolor, and dreamy babydoll dressing.

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