Jil Sander Spring 2009
The earlier part of this decade may have been all about Heidi Slimane's considerably significant contribution to the world of menswear with his classic sharp tailoring and edgy rock inspired slim fitting sportswear. And while that was an undeniably great moment in fashion history, we think Raf Simons is today's most important man in men's fashion, at his own namesake label and as head of Jil Sander. He too creates a very natty, well tailored structure, and while there is something strikingly sober about his collections, there is always a very strong new idea that underlies everything. And very smartly, he seems to re-interpret key trends in current women's wear for men, such as the fantastic crisp color-blocked short sleeved suiting we saw at Jil Sander for this upcoming Spring, or the incredibly dashing contrast suiting with molded sci-fi sleeves, neon boleros and angular cuts from his namesake collection for Fall 2009. What also sets him apart is that while his ideas are provocative, they aren't too loud nor pretentious, instead they are always wearable without any of the gimmicky trimmings & tricks that other designers seem to overload their menswear collections with.
Raf Simons Fall 2009